Pet Pigeons
trained to love you.

Pigeons are granivores. Seed or pellet mix both work fine, mine are trained to eat both so they're not picky. No corn is preferred for indoor pets. (Low corn is fine) Corn is recommended for birds outside in the winter.

• Best Recommendation for Arizona: Pratt's Pets - Glendale $40 for 50 pounds (They also 5 or 10 pound bags and grit)
• Seed mix: Chewy $40 for 50 pounds
• Grit: Amazon
• Seed mix: Etsy 24 for 5 pounds in case you don't want a 50 pound bag.

Other options available on Amazon or at local pet stores with a bird section. If in a rush, anything that says pigeon or dove works. Keep grit available at all times, it helps digestion. I don't feed treats, since it can make birds picky.

• Here is my personal $3 feeding container. I love this, there's always a shelf full at Walmart. It fits perfectly in your pocket and is so easy to open and close.
• Another option from Amazon if you for some reason can't find or order the other one

A 50 pound bag of food will last one pigeon close to 2 years so this makes pigeons very low cost.

If you have problems with bugs, chewy will send you a new bag for free very easily. Don't worry, pigeons are smart and don't eat bugs. If possible, some people freeze the bag first to kill any.

I offer free diagnosis and medicine to all local customers, even if it's not the pigeon you got from me. I'm here to help. I can tell you how to cover most issues but for more extreme cases you'll need to seek a vet.

My babies are kept indoors away from diseases and infections from outside birds.

• Sickness: If you're worried about sickness at all, this is what you'll want FOR SURE.

Some signs your bird is sick is yellow, crusty eyes or nose. Yellow or white cheese in their throat is canker. They will also puff up a lot and barely eat. It's very easy to tell when a pigeon is sick honestly.

Unfortunately the majority of vets are completely clueless when it comes to pigeons and you'll pay about $400 just for them to give you a general antibiotic like doxy, but that wouldn't help if it was canker for example. If you do go to a vet, any regular avian vet will do but unless they specifically work with pigeons it is hard to trust their judgement. They just aren't typically familiar with pigeons.

The Tony's treasure tablets I link for you include treatment for all the common sicknesses they get as well as an antibiotic. Give them the tablets for about 3-5 days typically, I would do about 7 days max if they were really sick but most likely you would notice the bird is not well long before there's a major issue.

• Mites: Feather mites are harmless to humans and aren't an immediate danger. I prefer this spray or any poultry powder like this will work. Spray them before you put them to bed and their cage for 3 days and your problem is fixed. I don't really come across mites very much.

It is normal for pigeons to sneeze. It's only a problem if it's excessive. It's also normal for them to lay down sideways on their wing, people call it loafing.

Pigeons prefer wide enclosures over tall ones. Dog crates work well. I like ones with a slide-out bottom tray for easy cleaning.

I get cages from Facebook Marketplace or Nellis Auction for around 20-30 bucks.

For water, use a poultry-style waterer so they can't bathe in it like this (or search "pigeon waterer" on Amazon). I keep one in the cage and then will give water after feeding. You'll see them "pant" if they're hot or thirsty, but this generally only happens when they're outside or after flying a lot.

All my pigeons love shoulders, but they'll find their own places to enjoy in your home with you too, so don't worry too much. They love sitting on things while still being next to you (or sitting where you feed them).

Pigeons love sitting on couches, chairs and monitors. You can reinforce where you want them to hang out by feeding them when they go there, or simply put them there and feed them. They are great at association and learning new things.

My birds are diaper trained, so cleanup is minimal. Pigeon poop is easy to clean and doesn't smell much or stain anyways.

• FanzyPants: around $43 plus shipping, customizable with measurements and name
• PigeonPants: around $33 for one, $51 for two, free shipping
• Budget option on Amazon (M): $10 to $15, what I mostly use while birds are still growing
• Budget option on Amazon (L): $15, these work great for more grown birds. Both are very adjustable, cheap, and all you'll really need.

I usually leave a diaper on for 4 to 8 hours depending on the bird, some poop more than others. Test at the 4-hour mark to see how full it is, you can always swap in a fresh one. It is safe to trim vent feathers to help with poopy butts.

I take the diaper off when I put them in the cage for the night, in the morning I just brush the dried poop off, no need for liners imo. Once the diaper gets too dirty I just throw it in the washer and dryer to clean it. Very easy.

I recommend not feeding them to full with a diaper on as they'll poop more. My trick is to do most of the feeding before the diaper comes off so they'll poop in the cage.

These birds are very well trained. I have left them unsupervised with diapers while I leave the house and nothing has ever happened. Just use common sense and don't leave them in a room with ceiling fans on.

Most of my pigeons come with a split aluminum band ($5 on Etsy) with my contact on it for safety reasons. It is very easy to use some pliers to put your own on. Since the birds are very well trained, if one got lost it would just land on another human, who would then see the contact information on the band.

Pigeons bond with humans very well and will love hanging out with you while you do literally anything. They do not cuddle in the way dogs do, but they do enjoy light scratching around the neck area. The body is more reserved for "mates" but your pigeon will naturally mate with you regardless, so it's fine to do it.

The pigeon will want to follow you or perch on you, even find their own places in your house to hang out at. Mine love chairs and sofas. If I want them I simply pick them up, but them on my shoulder. Training wise, I like to randomly recall them throughout the day to encourage friendliness.

Your pigeon will be very tame so it will fall asleep on you frequently. Some birds sit and lay down on you, some sleep standing up, some sleep on one leg. This one leg helps them stabilize better for a deeper sleep.

Once your bird starts to hit puberty the squeaks turn more into honks and they will start practicing cooing at you, or they may start cooing at somebody you know, maybe even plush animals. I explain this more in the Q&A.

Pigeons kind of decide what toys they like sometimes. They love forage toys, things that are stringy or that they can dig in, with varying colors. You can also try plush toys (they'll mate with them sometimes). Try some tiny balls like cat toys or just anything you think would be fun for a little pigeon.

Bonus tip: sprinkle some seeds in the toy to encourage interaction.

Baths are pretty simple. Give them something wide like a tin pan and fill it up. After you take the diaper off you can try placing them in it and splashing the water with your hand, pouring water on them, etc. When they are really happy they'll lift up one wing to the sky while laying down.

You can also try taking your pigeon into the shower with you. I do this with some of them. Mess around and spend time with your bird and see what they like!

Pigeons and other birds are sensitive to strong scents. I'm not saying you can never use these things again, but be aware they can be harmful to your birds respiratory system. My rule of thumb is if I can smell it, I keep them away.

• Teflon cookware
• Hairspray, deodorant, air freshener, spray paint
• Scented candles, wax melts, and incense
• Cigarette and vape smoke
• Strong cleaning products like bleach (diluted vinegar is good)
• Nail polish and nail polish remover
• Paint fumes, especially oil-based
• Self-cleaning oven cycles

Most people have air purifiers, so just don't do these things in the same room as your bird. Wait for the smell to go away before letting them go in again.

An air purifier is highly recommended, as pigeons are quite dusty. You can get one for cheap on Facebook Marketplace or just buy one from a place like Amazon or Costco.

I would not personally recommend keeping more than two birds indoors, and I recommend keeping them in a separate room from where you sleep.

It is perfectly fine to keep your bird outdoors and then diaper and bring them indoors during the day! I have several customers that do this, and some are quite spoiled with their huge outdoor aviary.

A month or two after getting your bird (assuming you got one still squeaking) I recommend measuring your bird for a custom fit diaper. You use a soft measuring tape and give the dimensions that the diaper maker asks for. If you tend to leave your bird's diaper on for more than 4 hours a day, I recommend asking for a bigger poop pouch. I know FanzyPants does this, unsure about others.

You can also measure when you get a bird and do this immediately, I just personally use the cheaper Amazon diapers while they are growing. They don't become full grown til about 6 months though. My birds are typically sold around 6 weeks.

One thing amazing about pigeons is they are such low cost. When you get a bird from me, you get a bag of food to last you a long time and grit so you don't have to worry about that.

Your initial cost will look like:

• $20-30 for a 30-42 inch dog crate from Facebook Marketplace (if you're in Arizona the app Nellis Auction has them literally every day)

• $15 diaper from Amazon

And that's really it. You'll want an air purifier but you have time before your bird starts molting, they are usually around $20-40 on Facebook Marketplace. The cost of food is like $10-20 a YEAR depending on what bag you buy.

You can put many things in their cage that you already own. I use $2 dog bowls or $1 tin pans from Walmart or the dollar store and fill it up with different things as bedding for their nest. I steal a little bit of hay from horse barns for free.

I personally keep one nest, one platform and one perch per cage, but your home is pretty much its playground. Put a diaper on and just hang out with them. As long as they have something to perch on in their cage they are happy. I prefer flexible rope perches and just putting it straight across.

For food check out my diet section. If ordering from chewy you can get a 50 pound bag that will last 2-3 years. If you create a new account on Chewy it gives you 35% off with autoship then you cancel it right after. This also gives you a $20 coupon which you can use to buy perches for free, or another bag of food! I just create a new account each time and use a fake number.

2x4 makes a great perch. Get one for $5 from home depot and borrow a drill and some tools from a friend. You can buy some bolts that screw into the side of it and make any size perches you want. Total cost about $15 to buy the 2x4, bolt, washer, wing nut.

Amazon

Here is an amazon cart full of everything you need. I mention in other sections how to save money or other things I prefer. This section is assuming you don't care that much and want it simplified and all in one place.

• Cage: 36 inch dog crate. Fits up to two birds comfortably, great for one.
• Large Platforms: Pigeons love platforms rather than normal perches. They lay down a lot.
• Wooden Perch: Flat wooden perch is another option for them they like.
• Flexible Perch: Some pigeons like these as well. I like giving them different options.
• House Cave: They love laying down in these or perching on top. Good substitute for a nest as well. (sprinkle seed inside they'll love it)
• Bowls: Since we hand feed I use these for grit. Can also be used for water if changed frequently instead of the pigeon water. Or used to give food when going on vacations.
• Pigeon Water: I love these because they stay clean and you can pretty much fill it and forget about it.
• Pigeon Food (No Corn): Food.
• Grit: Grit.
• Puppy Pads: Fit your 36 inch dog crate tray. Change every 1 or 2 weeks. Makes it very easy to clean but obviously newspaper is free. I just like these because they fit perfectly and 50 cents a week is like nothing.

You are free to change the list like add a bigger crate, whatever bird cage you want. The only thing I'd say is to just get a flexible perch and puppy pads matching your other option. Bird cages tend to actually be smaller in width.

Instead of the wood and flexible perch I also use cut 2x4s to whatever length I want and put a bolt in them to attach a washer and wing nut but this is more work obviously.

The bird already knows the salt shaker and "come here" cue. Now it's up to you to decide whether you want to keep recall training or just enjoy your new pet. The most important thing is really just spending time together and loving your bird. The more you do this, the more it will bond with you. DON'T OVERFEED.

• Reward in small amounts if you're going to do it a lot
• I recommend feeding on your shoulder too, pigeons are very good with association, so wherever you feed becomes a place they want to be
• Sprinkle a little seed wherever you want them to lay down, perch or nest
• Feed right after putting the diaper on so they associate it with something good
• Birds don't naturally like being grabbed, so reinforce it with food afterward
• Hand feed daily to keep them tame
• Feed little by little throughout the day rather than all at once, that way you can constantly reward them. Randomly recalling helps them wanting to fly to you a lot
• If a bird stops listening to recall it just means they're full. Try again tomorrow. Don't force them and keep trying
• If you find them becoming scared of hands, just walk towards and touch them while offering the food so they associate it with something good. I pick birds up by using my hand underneath in front of their legs most of the time, not by grabbing

Pigeons actually eat A LOT less than you think. If you overfeed your bird it is normal for the recall to not work for 1 or 2 days. Try spending more time with your pigeon and feeding in only one or two bites at a time.

I know it's exciting getting a bird home and wanting to feed them because they are squeaking and obsessed with you, but they aren't as hungry as they are telling you. Baby pigeons are the world's biggest beggers. They are just excited and happy to be with you, not starving.

Like I said before, if a bird of mine stops recalling it means they are full and I don't work on it or feed anymore. A lot of people will feed their pigeon until it stops eating even though this is 2-3 times the amount they need. It is a learning experience balancing how much. I like to do about half of my salt shaker per day, throughout the day. After that, I just hang out with them.

Pigeons tend to relax more and be a bit lazier when they are full so this isn't a bad thing anyways! I do still like to use the food for training though like touching them and rewarding to keep all experiences positive.

I understand this is a lot to work on or think about, you could also simply put your bird on your shoulder and feed them and they will still love you anyways so it's ok.

The same rules kind of apply, but for the journey to be safe I fattened the bird up even more which means they won't recall as well in the beginning. My main goal here is to get you a healthy and friendly bird safely, then provide you with the resources to continue easily bonding with them yourself afterwards.

Day 1: I would recommend just putting the bird on your shoulder and feeding it with a container until they lose interest. If a bird stops recalling or stops while eating, it means they aren't hungry and there's no need to feed more. Pigeons eat A LOT less than you think. DON'T OVER FEED it actually makes pigeons more scared.

Offer water several times throughout the day. Water is the big thing here since they were shipped with food anyways.

Day 2: You can start to begin the recall when you take your bird out of their cage. I recommend only hand feeding to keep your pigeon friendly. Shake the salt shaker and offer your hand and see if they fly to you. If they aren't interested it's ok, it just means they aren't hungry. Try for about 30 seconds and see if they are interested. If not, just try again tomorrow. When I have a bird that doesn't recall after being trained it just tells me they are full and I never force it or keep trying.

If you do diaper the bird just do it once you take them out and offer one or two bites before trying the recall.

Most my birds will naturally try to jump at you or at your shoulder for food or to just rest there. I also move my hand towards my shoulder to let them jump to it to get a reward.

If they don't recall, then don't worry about feeding. Try again before bed or even tomorrow. A bird that doesn't recall is just one that isn't hungry. That's fine, just spend time with them. Put them on your shoulder and offer a bite, all of mine are raised to love humans regardless.

Even if you don't care about your bird flying to you, feeding and recalling builds confidence. When a bird is worried, food helps calm them down. It's also fun. It's all up to you though.

When pigeons are full they are more happy to just hang out with you so this isn't a bad thing anyways. I do still like to use the food for training when it comes to touching them just to reinforce hands are a good thing.

The most important thing is really just spending time together and loving your bird. The more you do this, the more it will bond with you.

My birds are trained to free fly, which helps build their confidence and trust in humans. That said, I don't recommend it. My goal isn't to hand you a free-flight pigeon, it's to give you a trained, calm pet. You're welcome to keep training outside if you want, but understand the risk. In 6 years I've never lost a bird to a predator or to flying off, thanks to extensive training and never flying when I see predator birds in the sky. Personally, I'd recommend a leash and walks instead.

Only free-fly a hungry bird, training works through food rewards, not a full stomach. Bring water and grit along for afterward, grit especially helps stop them from pecking at rocks on the ground. And use common sense, don't free-fly anywhere you see hawks or falcons.

• How to Train a Pet Pigeon to Free Fly

Diapers with a leash attachment are available if you want extra safety. My birds do great on a leash thanks to their training and recall, so if they try to jump down they don't panic. I use a leash in crowded public spots like festivals, since a flying bird can startle people who aren't expecting it. I prefer training at parks with fewer people around. If your bird jumps off while leashed, just set them back on your shoulder, it's safe. For leash time I actually recommend a full bird instead, offer grit and water and they'll be more relaxed. It's a great way to bond with your bird.

• How to Leash Train Your Pigeon (Going for Walks)

If you have no interest in free-flying, that's completely fine. These birds make excellent house pets and will fly to you indoors all the time regardless. It's a risk you take by taking a bird outside, I can't guarantee everything goes perfectly. I guarantee you a trained and relaxed bird.

I cannot express it enough but there is a balance with free flying. If a bird is too full, they don't care and will not exactly fly off, but won't fly back to you either.

For example when people race pigeons (homing) they won't feed them for a day because they are more willing to find their way home when hungry. If they feed the bird and then try to take them somewhere, they'll get lost before they make it home. Think of it like we are that "home" for a pigeon.

Since these birds are very well trained they tend to not get spooked and fly off because they find comfort in being with us so it's a little bit different. To minimize risk and be safe just read the leash section, but if you have any questions about free flying feel free to ask me.

I like to keep my floor clean of seeds (easy to do with the handheld container I give you) because it reinforces the bird coming to you. Pigeons naturally forage so they will walk around and clean up a bit for you anyways.

You may see me throw my birds in videos like a boomerang. This basically teaches them that when they fly off, they get rewarded for coming back. So if they do decide to go fly a bit, they know to come back for food. I do this primarily when it comes to recalling for free fly, but feel free to experiment with setting your bird places in your house and recalling them! Around corners, different elevations (those are usually tricky if you have stairs), etc. Have some fun with it because you'll never find any other bird like this, I promise!

Interested in reading more? Check out my other resources:

• How to Train a Pet Pigeon to Free Fly
• How to Train a Pet Pigeon (No Free Flying)
• How to Train a Rescue Pigeon
• How to Feed and Wean a Baby Pigeon (Picky Eaters!)
• How to Train Your Budget Pigeon
• How to Leash Train Your Pigeon (Going for Walks)
• Training Series, video walkthroughs

When I started this in July of 2026 I was driving every week around the state talking to a dozen breeders trying to get all sorts of pigeons.

Now in September of 2026 it has grown way more than I thought it would. I invested all my money into a very big aviary for the birds and I am paying a friend a monthly fee to house my pairs on his property. I also keep several pairs at my house to monitor them closely or to bond specific birds together.

I currently have in pairs:
5x German Owls
3x Mindian Fantails
2x Frillback
10x Modena
1x Birmingham roller
3x Classic Old Frills

Whether all this is ethical is up to you. Any pigeons not coming from my aviary are by friends in the APC or from people who have pets that only let them breed for me to have a baby. All pigeons go to homes of people looking for a pet.

For babies from my aviary, I let the parents raise them for 10 days. Pigeons get mostly crop milk for the first 5-7 days of their life. After that, their parents also regurgitate seeds.

I take them after they are done feeding milk as this is the most important part of their development, but they aren't walking or flying yet so it's very easy to train them and get them friendly.

I bring them indoors to be completely safe from elements and diseases. I have an extra bedroom which has 8 cages and I seperate pigeons by age, so they grow up with a buddy but also bond to humans so they do well either way. I keep the AC vent closed so they stay warm but have fans to circulate air and also leave the door open during the day. They have two air purifiers to keep the room very clean.

After I bring them in, I hand feed a mix and formula and seeds. I have a process where I teach them to eat on their own and then the training begins.

When you get a bird from me you know it's raised healthy and friendly with lots of training.

I don't kidnap feral pigeons because they often have lots of diseases and I believe wild birds should be kept in the wild to do their own thing. Whenever I have raised feral pigeons in the past they often come with all sorts of health issues.

No! Gender does not matter. I've had super friendly birds that were male and super friendly birds that were female. Pigeons raised as pets exhibit behaviors from both genders and you can only tell from loft raised pigeons.

Right now I gender test birds for $20 a bird so you can know the gender. If you are wanting a specific gender, I charge $50 to gender test 3 birds. If for some reason all 3 are the wrong gender, I test more birds for free til you get what you want.

I am now planning on offering free gender results for birds that are $300 just as a courtesy. I feel like if you are paying that much it should be included.

Yes. Since I sell my birds while still babies, they adapt to whatever environment they are in. Tons of my customers bring their baby into the family with other animals.

I tell my customers it's never really about the pigeon, pigeons aren't harmful birds. It's about the other animal. I don't know your animals, but I know the pigeon won't be an issue.

If you bring adult pigeons into an environment yes there could be an issue with smaller birds, but since i sell mine as babies I don't really worry.

The internet is weird about this one. They tell you pigeons attack doves. I know tons of people that keep doves, pigeons and chickens together without an issue.

You will find me streaming on TikTok every 1-2 times a day showcasing just how friendly my birds are.

There is no set allocated time, it is more about time throughout the day and varies depending on age. Here is a little about my process to understand:

• I feed babies on formula 3-5 times a day
• I feed birds being weaned to eat seeds 2 times a day (diapering typically begins here)
• I feed birds in training 1 times a day OR throughout the day depending on what my goal is for the session.
• I feed birds ready to be shipped 2 times a day to fatten them up for the journey.

I diaper 3-4 birds a day for around 6 hours and let them roam around to be with me while watching tv or chores. This usually involves random food or recalling just so they learn how to be a friendly house pet instead of just taken out and recalled.

Yes, it's a full time job. My other job is only 2 hours a day, 4 days a week. I pay my girlfriend 10% to clean cages. I pay another friend a monthly fee to keep birds on his property. 10 birds a month pays my rent and bills just like any other full time job. It is more fun to raise and train pigeons than stocking shelves.

Over the years I have developed my own process to teach baby pigeons to wean off formula and eat seeds early. This means we can begin training earlier than usual and get a very friendly bird. With other breeders, pigeons don't wean until 4 weeks old. This is too old because by this time the bird already knows how to fly, has been raised by pigeons for its early life and is scared of humans. Most my birds learn to eat seeds at 2 weeks old while they are still walking. They learn to absolutely adore humans.

That combined with my whole training process means you won't find any other pigeons as friendly as mine. I guarantee you.

1. German Owls: They have a "crest" at their head and a "bowtie" at their chest to look fancy. They are bred to have small beaks and are usually white with color on their wings. They are very cute ans fly well.

2. Classic Frills: Belonging to the Owl family as in being fancy. These come with feathered legs and a little on the feet. Wing coloring tends to be different. Satinettes have white bodies, Blondinettes have black bodies.

3. Rollers: These come in all sorts of colors, they are bred to "roll" as they fly. My pigeons don't really do it when raised to be pets so it doesn't matter. They usually don't have any "fancy" features.

4. Tumblers: Similar to Rollers but they tumble. These usually involve more feathered legs, feet and a crest. Like with Rollers, there's so many types of Tumblers.

5. Fantails: These are fancy pigeons that basically have a fan as a tail so they look very exotic. They don't fly that well as their tail makes it hard. When they do, it's almost like a tornado coming through the town as they usually much bigger!

6. Racing/Homing: These come in many colors and have different beaks typically. They are bred to fly longer distances to reach home. When trained as pets, they don't do this.

7. Frillback: They basically are just pigeons with curly feathers. They can fly, but not super well like other birds. They are a little larger than other breeds like Owls.

8. Modena: This is basically a pigeon in chicken form. They don't fly that well. They don't raise babies well. They crush eggs. These are the most expensive pigeons because they are the hardest to breed. Since they don't fly, people consider them tame but any pigeon you get from me will be friendly regardless of breed.

9. Budapest: My favorite breed. They have smaller beaks but the big draw here is they have big eyes so they have cute faces.

Extras: Many breeds will involve feathered feet or a crest, it's just something extra bred into them.

This isn't meant to go over every breed, these are just the ones commonly bred and kept as pets which means I have the easiest access to. There are MANY breeds of pigeons and it doesn't matter at all which one you keep as a pet, it's really only about looks. A lot of breeders will tell you their breed is the best, it's just to lie and sell you a bird.

For comparison, a pigeon from a hatchery like Stromberg's runs around $200-$300 shipped, and that bird could be anywhere from 3 to 18 months old and untamed.

You're paying that much for an adult bird with no hand raising or training behind it. I think $200-300 for a fully hand raised, trained, socialized bird is a good deal, especially compared to parrots, which are far less domesticated and still sell for thousands.

It is a full time job to hand feed and train these birds and I need to afford rent and bills just like anyone else.

Many breeders will tell you they hand raise them because they touch them as they are growing up. I have a whole training and weaning process I have developed to ensure they are very friendly. I help people however I can. These breeders usually don't have videos with all of their birds like me being socialized because they aren't actually training them to be a pet.

Some Modenas go for thousands as a terrified adult too. It's already hard enough finding a true pet pigeon, now combine that with the fact that Modenas are the hardest to breed. I have to have an extra pair of pigeons for every Modena pair just because they crush eggs.

I am confident you won't get a pigeon as friendly as this from anywhere else. If you want proof, just check out my videos on social media or my reviews.

Pigeons live about 3 to 5 years in the wild but can live 10-25 years domesticated. They go through puberty around 2 months old and reach sexual maturity around 6 months which is when female pigeons lay eggs.

One is totally fine despite what the internet says. They're hand raised and bond naturally to humans. They also do well with a second pigeon for company, though whether they end up "pairing" depends on the individual birds. I haven't noticed much behavioral difference between owners keeping 1, 2, or 3. They're all pretty chill and social either way.....as long as you spend time with your bird it doesn't matter. Between my training and diapering it makes spending time with your bird super easy.

I actually prefer to keep my birds as one since I can dedicate the time to them and it's very low maintenance and easy. More birds is just a lot more work when you have them as house pets.

Pigeons bond to humans as mates, so after 2 months old they will try to "mate" with you. It just means they like you, think of it as a horny-teenager phase that gets better with time. Their bites feel more like a pinch and their noise isn't nearly as loud or startling as a parrot's. This just means they really like you.

My birds are usually sold before this phase kicks in. At sale age they're still squeaking, just starting to coo possibly, so you get to experience the stages yourself!

I recommend not petting them on the body when on your shoulder, as this is considered sexual behavior and it gets them more excited. I don't personally like for them to get too excited while next to my face. However, a little cooing and biting at the hand is ok.

It is ok to pet them though, so don't be worried about that! They are just horny birds. Having a second bird can help them take it out on each other and not mate with you as much. It's one of the cute and funny parts of having a pet pigeon.

Your bird may "hump" you, especially if kept solo. They'll basically get on your hand or another body part (maybe an object or toy) to squat and flap their wings for about 15 seconds, then move on. It's not super common, and you can stop them if it makes you uncomfortable.

Pigeons also love to play fight. This is good and they love when you reciprocate, but like I said they calm down a lot after puberty.

I believe that breed does not matter when it comes to a domesticated pet pigeon. My birds are very well trained. People who say breed matters are people who don't train their birds. All pigeons are pretty much the same, they just look different so pick what you think is pretty.

If you have requests I can do my best to find what you are looking for with my connections.

With that said, German Owls and Classic Frills are highly sought after. Modenas as well due to them not being able to fly so they seem more calm.

I used to travel the country training horses and exotics (zebras, camels, water buffalo, alpacas, etc.) but got frustrated with how people treated and trained their animals, so I stepped back from public training. I still train privately for the Salt River wild horse management group and occasionally help someone out. These days I teach country dancing at Scootin' Boots in Mesa, but pigeons are still my passion project.

I personally see it as a new experience to improve my method or training, or meet a new personality. Every bird is different and they are all cute in their own way and the way they do their own things.

It is sad seeing a bird go, but you know they are going to a loving home that will teach someone else to enjoy pigeons in the way I have enjoyed them and that's all you can ask for. I love training all sorts of different pigeons and sharing my love of them with others.

I understand things happen and life changes. I would recommend posting to your local Facebook group to find a home for the bird but I can also walk you through the shipping process if you'd like to send the bird back.

If you're unhappy for whatever reason, let me know. I'll do my best to make it right.

I do help people by letting them do payments for a bird.